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 Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc (currently 27,015 views) |
| Graham Bichard |
| Posted on: July 28th, 2017, 09:07:40 |
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Maximum Member2
Posts: 751
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Pete, good shout on the master cylinder. This was already on the car when I bought it (and looks brand new). Given where I bought the car from I'd hope this would be correct:
This is the one on the mini:
The replacement slave cylinder I fitted is this:
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/GSY118MS.aspx
The genuine item wasn't available when I bought this some time ago.
The engine is from an MPI (96-01) - while I don't know if it's from an early or late car (engine numbers not too clear, there were some differences I think but nothing major to the engine) I believe they are all verto clutches.
The MPI uses a slightly bigger diameter (190mm) clutch plate. All the replacement parts were purchased for 'MPI' (clutch plate, lightened flywheel etc) normally from Minispares.
Thinking this through, if I were to remove the rod from the slave cylinder, the shaft (with nut in the previous photo) should remain 'out'? If so the problem would look to originate in the slave cylinder/mastercylinder/hydraulic side, not in the clutch assembly? |
Last modified July 28th, 2017, 09:07:56 by Graham Bichard |
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Reply: 435 - 599 |
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| Pete Crudgington |
| Posted on: July 29th, 2017, 09:02:44 |
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Big Member
Location: Bath
Posts: 254
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Graham
Looking at your master cylinder it looks like a clutch one from the position of the filler cap relative to the flange.
The verto clutch assembly has a top hat between the release bearing and the clutch, are you sure this is fitted?
Remove the rod as you say and see if you can move the arm by hand, you should be able to move it to take up the slack but then it will feel nearly solid, also check the the nuts on the shaft that go to the release bearing are not bottoming out on the clutch cover.
Hope this helps
Pete |
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Reply: 436 - 599 |
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| Graham Bichard |
| Posted on: July 29th, 2017, 10:38:21 |
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Maximum Member2
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Pete, this top hat - its a bronze coloured type thing:
http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/Clutch/Fittings/AHU1564.aspx
I'm pretty sure it did go back (but as is the way I'm now doubting my (poor at the best of times) memory).
Is it possible do you know to take the clutch cover off with the engine in the car? In fact, thinking far ahead, is it possible to do a clutch change with the engine/subframe still in?
The nuts on the shaft (one lock nut and the 'inner' nut which would contact the clutch cover, are wound back as far as they can be, the outer nut flush with the end of the shaft.
I realise I've only got another 23 years to get the car finished and on the road (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-40726868)
Better pull my finger out!
Thanks, |
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Reply: 437 - 599 |
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| Pete Crudgington |
| Posted on: July 29th, 2017, 11:11:56 |
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Location: Bath
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Graham
Should be able to remove cover with engine in car, its not that easy and a couple of the bolts on the clutch cover are very hard to get to. Its not to bad on my car but I have no inner wings and the front comes off!
Need to put jack under the engine as one of the engine mounts is on the clutch cover.
Take the rod out first as above to check movement there etc. |
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Reply: 438 - 599 |
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| Graham Bichard |
| Posted on: July 29th, 2017, 14:39:08 |
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Maximum Member2
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Thanks Pete. I'll give it a go.
Quick general update on other progress.
I discovered one of my small pack straps was black with an (dirty) orange stripe which I decided to use for a couple of door straps:
I've fitted the bits of carpet I have to the front of the car. I had to make up a couple of small infill panels to tidy up the area just in front of the door opening. This has been covered with the foam/faux suede which I had left over:
I cut the carpet piece I had for the rear to fit the boot board:
I've got another piece of carpet ordered from ebay to cover the wheel arches and the area immediately behind the seats.
Unfortunately I can't put the seats in at this time as I need two seat belt bolts (7/16") for the upper seat belt mount. And I need two longer metric fine thread bolts for the bracket for the seat belt stalk (transmission tunnel).
I'm told for the rear side panels I need something called 'millboard' or 'trimboard'. I've found a couple of places on the internet which sells this (postage may be a problem due to the size of sheets), but I think I need to try and get some cardboard templates made up first.
Finally a photo of my #to do' board:
Not all encompassing - I tidy this up regularly, but gives a good idea that a lot of whats left is smaller items:
To fit the windscreen/windows I need the rubber surround and in fill (sorry for disturbing your holiday Andy, when trying to get this through the club) and then get a screen fitter in. (I don't fancy cracking the heated screen trying to fit it after it's been stood at the foot of the bed for the past... 5 years?)
Has anyone got a digital radio fitted to their car? I hear reception in kit cars can be a bit hit/miss. Oh and a digital aerial fits to the windscreen, so no rush for this until its fitted then!
The centre console can wait too. But what solution do people have for covering/lining the companion boxes in their cars? I find these useful in the mini for putting things in to stop them slipping across the rear seat, but want something more than the unlined box as is. Any inspiration?
So really the clutch and the front panel are the only big-ish items left, other than then doing a front to rear check of the car.
And I've got another week off in August. All I need now is that lottery win to help push this over the line  . |
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Reply: 439 - 599 |
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| Graham Bichard |
| Posted on: July 30th, 2017, 09:40:49 |
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Maximum Member2
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So with the slave cylinder removed the shaft is free to move in/out:
Now should this (with the cylinder out of the system) be pushed 'out' firmly, so that on pushing the clutch pedal the shaft is forced in to disengage?
As it is, the weight of the actuating arm & pin is enough to move the arm ever so slightly, the shaft is so free to move.
If so this would definitely suggest incorrect assembly  |
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Reply: 440 - 599 |
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| Pete Crudgington |
| Posted on: July 30th, 2017, 18:10:06 |
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Location: Bath
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Graham
Before stripping it down more, wind the nuts back off so the actuation shaft can go in further, you should be able to feel the release bearing hit the clutch if everything in there is correct. It does however look like something may be not correct, either top hat or release bearing not fitted correctly. |
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| Graham Bichard |
| Posted on: August 5th, 2017, 16:33:19 |
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Maximum Member2
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Hmm, a bit tight you say? Never mind - I got a few extra microns of space by knocking over the jar with the clutch fluid in it, stripping the paint from the subframe as I tried to mop it up! >
So while I'm not convinced the photos are clear enough for opinions, here's what I found.
The top hat was in place:
There was evidence of fresh marks on this too:
The release bearing is attached to the end of the shaft:
Now as I push the shaft (with the two nuts on) in and out, the release bearing moves in/out on the end of the shaft. It does wobble a bit, but is secure on the shaft. |
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| Graham Bichard |
| Posted on: August 5th, 2017, 16:41:42 |
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Maximum Member2
Posts: 751
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Another annoyance, there's just not quite enough space to take the clutch cover off. But with a bit of juggling with the light, this is the clutch plate/end of crank:
Now does this look 'right'? Should there be something spacing this further out - by this I mean, something to press against the release bearing and take up the slack (hope that makes sense)?
I'm hoping beyond hope there's something obviously wrong which someone can spot because it really is going to be an engine out job (more accurately 'body up' of course).
Here's hoping... |
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Reply: 443 - 599 |
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| Pete Crudgington |
| Posted on: August 6th, 2017, 18:29:42 |
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Location: Bath
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Graham
Looks like the release bearing is fitted backwards. The inner race of the bearing should push against the top hat, how you have it the bearing is facing the wrong way.
Cheers Pete |
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| Graham Bichard |
| Posted on: August 7th, 2017, 17:57:13 |
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Maximum Member2
Posts: 751
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Pete, now turned around:
Before I put this back together, could this alone cause the problems I had with the solid pedal?
Thanks again. |
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| Pete Crudgington |
| Posted on: August 7th, 2017, 19:25:26 |
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Location: Bath
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Graham
Yep thats the right way round, this should cure the problems you had with the clutch, see how much further it sticks out past the end of the shaft now.
Cheers Pete |
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Reply: 446 - 599 |
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| Graham Bichard |
| Posted on: August 14th, 2017, 18:57:31 |
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Maximum Member2
Posts: 751
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IT WORKS!!!
For the first time in 7 years of owernership I've driven my car!
Driven might be a bit far fetched - reversed it at idle out of the garage and back in, and felt it drag in 2nd, 3rd & 4th. But it WORKS!
Big smile 
And big Thanks to Pete (and all the others who've answered my questions over the years).
The end might just really be in sight |
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| Neil KilBane |
| Posted on: August 15th, 2017, 08:23:09 |
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Maximum Member2
just a little fine tuning left to do.
Location: Newtown Forbes, Ireland
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Reply: 448 - 599 |
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| admin |
| Posted on: August 16th, 2017, 09:35:09 |
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 Administrator
Location: Maidenhead, UK
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| Well done Graham! Another milestone reached. |
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Mini Marcos Forum > General Boards > Mini Marcos > Right - join Part A to Part B etc, etc, etc
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