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  Author    MK2 Bonnet lifts up at speed  (currently 5,123 views)
CellZapper
Posted on: September 23rd, 2017, 20:59:54 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi I am new to this forum.

I built a mk2 in 1969 that has been of the road since 1976.

One of the problems I had with it was the bonnet would lift in the middle about an inch (or 2) especially in windy conditions.

Is this a common condition or do I have an air flow problem.

The mini in question may get an overhaul soon.

Regards Chris
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Tom Springer
Posted on: September 24th, 2017, 02:43:48 Quote Report to Moderator
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How is the bonnet attached?  My car had forward hinges (not of much use) and panel locks at the rear.  The bonnet would wander a bit at fast road speed in the front, but not as much as yours.
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CellZapper
Posted on: September 24th, 2017, 10:45:19 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi Tom

I built it as supplied. 2 bolt style hinges at the front and 2 twist key locks 1 fitted at the centre of each side.

no extra restraints fitted.

If I remember rightly the bonnet does not open far enough to adequately work on the engine with the bolt style hinges, I actually used coach bolts so the bonnet can be easily removed.

regards Chris
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Gary Marlow
Posted on: September 24th, 2017, 18:11:38
Attachment: circa_68__d._j._bond_.jpg - 110.61 KB (4128 views)
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Looks like my Mk1 race car may have had a similar problem and was solved by using a couple of 'bungy clips', probably not too good a look on a road car though?

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mike brown
Posted on: September 24th, 2017, 21:05:03 Quote Report to Moderator
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Have you got any holes in the inner wheel arches? You have a whole load of air coming in the front that needs to go somewhere. If however you cut a hole in the bonnet the air actually goes into it not out of it due to the positive pressure caused by the windscreen.
Mike
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CellZapper
Posted on: September 24th, 2017, 21:30:02 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi Mike

Yes there are some very crude holes intended for the mini radiator, cut out by Marcos in their Bradford mills factory........

The car is fitted with a modified triumph spitfire rad. the hole under the number plate is fully open, and usually I did fit the upper nose front bonnet panel to hide the radiator.

Sorry I have to have a RANT....
My lorry driver collected the body/kit from them, I might have rejected it if I had been there, I was very disappointed with the finish quality of the green unpainted fibre glass body.

One of the front wings had been delaminated in the mould, drivers side I think. fortunately I was good at fibre glass bodywork and able to rectify the problem.

I had problems with many things not fitting, typically the back (fixed) window keeps falling in, the hole is wrong (too big?).

Chris
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CellZapper
Posted on: September 24th, 2017, 22:19:31 Quote Report to Moderator
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Hi All
I have been looking in the GALLERY, I am confused as to the MK number I thought mine is a MK2 (purchased 1968.) no option of an opening hatchback at the time, but it looks like it could be a MK3. How do I definitively tell?

Registered 1969 H reg. in Brighton (a manual process like going to the bank).

My v5 is screwed up so I don't know my chassis number,  I have my new engine number as my chassis number. (old engine number as engine number, matches the donor log book)(Again a manual visit to the registration office in 1971)
EDIT I had to negotiate with DVLA to get a V5 as they did not renew it automatically.

My Brass VIN plate is almost unreadable any tips to make it clear would be useful.

My original engine was an 1961 850 mini van (well clapped out) replaced by a low mileage 1970 MG GT1300 write off in 1971. (the car had been rolled, every panel was bent and dented).

Regards Chris

Last modified September 24th, 2017, 22:56:01 by CellZapper
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mike brown
Posted on: September 25th, 2017, 09:13:51 Quote Report to Moderator
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Some pictures will help confirm mk. The brass plate should clean up with wire wool or some 320 wet and dry.
The simplest way to fix the bonnet i suspect is the glass some stiffening across the underside of the bonnet.
Mike
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Richard Porter
Posted on: September 25th, 2017, 18:57:23 Quote Report to Moderator
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Nobody seems to know exactly what a Mk.2 is. The chassis numbers are in the 6000, 7000, 8000 and 9000 series (plus the Heritage ones). 6000s are Mk.1s and 8000s are Mk.4s so the 7000 range has to cover Mk.2 and Mk.3. The only thing we can think of is that Mk.3 could mean the ones with factory fitted rear hatches. There are no other obvious design changes. Anyway I decided to classify them all as Mk.3. The production records have gone AWOL so we can't find out what the particular cars were sold as, and contemporary advertisements don't mention mark numbers.

A kit purchased in 1968 would almost certainly be a 7000 series car and Mk.2 is most likely.
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Neil KilBane
Posted on: September 26th, 2017, 07:47:56 Quote Report to Moderator
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just a little fine tuning left to do.


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As Mike said, throw up a few photos of the car .

The chassis plate should be stamped and even a paper rubbing should bring up some detail.

 
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CellZapper
Posted on: September 26th, 2017, 19:52:34
Attachment: cleaned_vin_plate_3_copy.jpg - 173.99 KB (4114 views)
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VIN Plate

Un-cleaned I could not read this in daylight
but in darkness with a bright LED torch providing shadow light, it became readable,
polishing with printer paper soaked in Brasso revealed a lot more.

So mkIII it is then....maybe

HOW DO ATTACH MORE THAN ONE IMAGE PLEASE


Last modified September 26th, 2017, 21:31:31 by CellZapper
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CellZapper
Posted on: September 26th, 2017, 22:20:10
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Back view

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CellZapper
Posted on: September 26th, 2017, 22:20:44
Attachment: my_marcos_side_1_dscn3294.jpg - 137.26 KB (4123 views)
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side view

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CellZapper
Posted on: September 26th, 2017, 22:21:27
Attachment: my_marcos_front_1_dscn3295.jpg - 142.11 KB (4135 views)
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front view

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mike brown
Posted on: September 27th, 2017, 17:23:53 Quote Report to Moderator
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It looks to be in quite reasonable condition for its age. Your chassis number is after my brothers race car which I've always known as a mk3.
Mike
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